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Гендерні аспекти моди: конструювання ідентичності за допомогою одягу (Gender Aspects of Fashion: Constructing of Identity Through Clothing)

Марценюк, Т. (Martsenyuk T.) and Новик, Т. (Novyk T.) (2015) Гендерні аспекти моди: конструювання ідентичності за допомогою одягу (Gender Aspects of Fashion: Constructing of Identity Through Clothing). Наукові записки Національного університету "Острозька академія". Серія "Гендерні дослідження"., Вип. 1. pp. 124-141.

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У статті здійснено огляд теоретичних підходів до визначення моди, розглянуто медіа (телебачення) як один із шляхів поширення модних образів. Конструювання гендерної ідентичності за допомогою одягу емпіричним чином вивчено на прикладі телешоу «Моду народу». Створення нормативного образу тіла, орієнтацію на чоловіків та об’єктивацію жіночого тіла, конструювання нормативної фемінності виокремлено як ознаки механізмів конструваювання традиційної фемінності інститутом моди у медіа.(The adage «meet on clothes, and escorted to the mind» clearly demonstrates the fact that appearance is the first thing we notice in a person. Costume includes codes that give an idea of who is the person before us. It can provide information, although not always accurate, about some socio-demographic characteristics: gender, age, region of origin, type of employment, class etc. Gender is one of the first categories, according to which we polarize people into two groups. There is a clear division between male and female fashion. Media is an important way of fashion transmission, production and reproduction of gender identity. This article is written based on the socio-constructivist theoretical approach, including explanation regarding gender differences. Its theoretical basis are the works of such scholars as Werner Sombart, Georg Simmel, Thorstein Veblen, Herbert Blumer, Roland Barthes, Pierre Bourdieu, Jean Baudrillard. The phenomenon of fashion in the social and human sciences is studied from the standpoint of class or place in the social structure, or based on social values and habitus of certain groups. Therefore, belonging to a particular category determines the tastes of individuals and thus their appearance, what actually determines the differences in women’s and men’s fashion. According to the semiotic approach, clothing as a part of everyday life, contains certain codes that are connected with values. Therefore, clothing can become the subject of interaction and thus construct the identity of the female and male owner. Through a massive impact on the audience, television in this case acts as one of the ways of fashion design, because according to the «social learning theory» viewers watching the behavior of the actor take on it, if this behavior results in a «reward». In this case, through imitation fashion design, individuals receive «symbolic reward» in the form of a positive perception of themselves and approval from others. Constructing gender identity through clothing empirically has been researched from the example of the TV show «Fashion to People». As a result of the study it was found out that constructing of TV show heroines and spectators of identities occurs via description of images, meanings and values. Constructing a normative body image, focus on men and the objectification of the female body, constructing normative femininity singled out as characteristics of constructing of traditional femininity mechanisms. TV show «Fashion to People» reproduce traditional ideas about gender identity (femininity and masculinity).)

Item Type: Article
Corporate Creators: Національний університет "Острозька академія" (The National University of Ostroh Aсademy)
Uncontrolled Keywords: мода, гендерна ідентичність, фемінність, конструювання, медіа (fashion, gender identity, femininity, constructing, media)
Subjects: by fields of science > Gender Researches
Наукові збірники НаУОА
Divisions: The College of Humanities > The Department of Cultural Studies and Philosophy
Depositing User: заввідділу Наталя Денисенко
Date Deposited: 13 Feb 2017 09:34
Last Modified: 13 Feb 2017 09:34

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